Littlejohnt
Villager
I have a couple I am still working on. The one I did to Windows 10 so far I had loaded the drive on a different computer and then put it in there. I will see if I can load one from scratch directly to the computer.
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I now have a 42" touch table, oh boy
- Thread starter scottie4442
- Start date
bjohn
Villager
So it seems this might be Win 10 and USB bootable drives compatibility issue. I've used Rufus to create the win10 drive GPT and MBR but no matter what settings I change in the Bios, it cannot see the Flash drives as Boot Option or Boot Override... Adv>USB Config> Legacy - Auto, USB 3 support enabled, xhci enable, ehci enable. Adv>Sata Config> Mode IDE & AHCI tried both. One Site says given age of Bios it must be IDE and legacy but the board supports EFI. A friend said because its older it might be because the drives need to be FAT32 instead of NTFS but I haven't found any good ways of making a FAT32 Win10 USB. Can you tell me how you were able to load Win10 on to yours?
I've recently salvaged one of these 442i tables from a scrap pile and managed to resurrect it with a bit of soldering work. It all works perfectly running the Smart Win 7 Pro re-install software. But since upgrading it to Win 10, I'm unable to get any sound out of the unit at all. Tried various drivers but nothing pings any sound out.
Any advice from others that have pushed these to Win 10 please?
Any advice from others that have pushed these to Win 10 please?
I wanted to post some info for others that stumble upon this thread via Google.
My SMART Table 442i came with an embedded PC made by Advantech, model ARK-DS262. It's a 3rd gen Intel Core i3-3217IE at 1.6Ghz. It has an Intel QM77 chipset, Intel CPU-integrated graphics, AMI 64 Mbit BIOS, two SODIMM slots for up to 8 gig PC3-10600 ram in each slot. It came populated with 4gig of ram.
I'll attach the specs on it direct from the manufacturer (the whole user manual from their site). You can find the Win7/XP drivers for it on the Advantech site as well:
Advantech ARK-DS262 Driver Page
One the key factors with this device is that it connects to all the peripherals (except the LAN) via an Intel OPS port. Also attached is the doc from Intel describing the OPS port and it's pinouts, should you want to try to connect something else to this port. You can purchase the male/female connectors from most major electronics suppliers (Digikey, Mouser, etc.). It is a JAE TX24A/25A Connector. The 25A is the male, and the 24A is the female.
Digikey link to female connector
Digikey link to male connector
I haven't tested it, but its likely that this can be replaced by any other PC that supports the Intel OPS (Open Pluggable Specification) connector. (also knows as a JAE TX25-80P-LT-H1E connector) As noted above, Viewsonic has several models. But they're prohibitively expensive. There are several other manufacturers that make these same style PCs, usually listed for digital signage. NEC seems to have a few models that are much better priced, at least as far as ebay prices go in July of 2023. I'm looking at units for $100-250, which is a lot better than $1,400 for a Viewsonic. The specs aren't that great, but you can probably find a decent i7 unit for under $300 (used, of course).
And if you're not planning an all-out replacement of the whole PC, then maybe upgrades are more your speed. My SMART Table 442i came with only 4gb of ram. It takes SODIMMs with DDR3, PC3-10600. I THOUGHT it supported 16gb of RAM - that's what Advantec's manual says, but it does NOT support 16gb, only 8gb. So save yourself a few bucks and get one 4gb SODIMM instead of two 8's.
The manual says that it supports SATA HDD of a max height of 9.5mm. I don't see why an SSD wouldn't work. I'm thinking for the low price of about $60, I can throw 16 gig of ram and an SSD into it and make it a little snappier. Sure, that won't help the low CPU speed, but unless I want to try to solder a new CPU onto the motherboard, that's about as much as I can do without replacing the whole unit.
I plan to upgrade it to Win10, but we'll see how the ram and SSD upgrade goes first. It sounds like an in-place upgrade to Win10 is the way to go. I'll image the original 500gig HDD first, though, just in case.
My SMART Table 442i came with an embedded PC made by Advantech, model ARK-DS262. It's a 3rd gen Intel Core i3-3217IE at 1.6Ghz. It has an Intel QM77 chipset, Intel CPU-integrated graphics, AMI 64 Mbit BIOS, two SODIMM slots for up to 8 gig PC3-10600 ram in each slot. It came populated with 4gig of ram.
I'll attach the specs on it direct from the manufacturer (the whole user manual from their site). You can find the Win7/XP drivers for it on the Advantech site as well:
Advantech ARK-DS262 Driver Page
One the key factors with this device is that it connects to all the peripherals (except the LAN) via an Intel OPS port. Also attached is the doc from Intel describing the OPS port and it's pinouts, should you want to try to connect something else to this port. You can purchase the male/female connectors from most major electronics suppliers (Digikey, Mouser, etc.). It is a JAE TX24A/25A Connector. The 25A is the male, and the 24A is the female.
Digikey link to female connector
Digikey link to male connector
I haven't tested it, but its likely that this can be replaced by any other PC that supports the Intel OPS (Open Pluggable Specification) connector. (also knows as a JAE TX25-80P-LT-H1E connector) As noted above, Viewsonic has several models. But they're prohibitively expensive. There are several other manufacturers that make these same style PCs, usually listed for digital signage. NEC seems to have a few models that are much better priced, at least as far as ebay prices go in July of 2023. I'm looking at units for $100-250, which is a lot better than $1,400 for a Viewsonic. The specs aren't that great, but you can probably find a decent i7 unit for under $300 (used, of course).
And if you're not planning an all-out replacement of the whole PC, then maybe upgrades are more your speed. My SMART Table 442i came with only 4gb of ram. It takes SODIMMs with DDR3, PC3-10600. I THOUGHT it supported 16gb of RAM - that's what Advantec's manual says, but it does NOT support 16gb, only 8gb. So save yourself a few bucks and get one 4gb SODIMM instead of two 8's.
The manual says that it supports SATA HDD of a max height of 9.5mm. I don't see why an SSD wouldn't work. I'm thinking for the low price of about $60, I can throw 16 gig of ram and an SSD into it and make it a little snappier. Sure, that won't help the low CPU speed, but unless I want to try to solder a new CPU onto the motherboard, that's about as much as I can do without replacing the whole unit.
I plan to upgrade it to Win10, but we'll see how the ram and SSD upgrade goes first. It sounds like an in-place upgrade to Win10 is the way to go. I'll image the original 500gig HDD first, though, just in case.
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Some photos of the guts of the Advantech ARK-DS262
Warning: if you're disassembling this unit to get at the CMOS batter, the front faceplate has to come off. To get it off, you have to remove to black plastic plugs that have been inserted into the USB sockets. They are deliberately made so they cannot be removed. Be very careful how you remove them. You can force them, but you risk destroying the USB sockets! On mine, I popped the bottom plastic USB plug out with a flathead screwdriver. The top one did not come out easily. The face of the plug ripped off before I could get the rest out. I would have been better off cutting the plastic with a sharp knife and removing the face of the plug, just so I could get the faceplate of the PC off and leaving the rest of the plug in place. I eventually got it all out, but I don't know if I damaged that USB plug or not.
Also note: when disassembling the unit, you have to remove every outside screw, as well as the HDD tray, the wifi antenna nut, and the serial port side-screws, in order to remove enough of the case to get at the CMOS battery to replace it without risking damage to the motherboard/battery-slot. It's annoying, but it's not that challenging. The bottom panel of the system (has attached fan) is connected to the motherboard for the fan power. That fan header is hard almost impossible to plug in if you've already re-attached the front faceplate. So remember to put the bottom (fan) plate on before the faceplate or you'll be taking it apart again.
Warning: if you're disassembling this unit to get at the CMOS batter, the front faceplate has to come off. To get it off, you have to remove to black plastic plugs that have been inserted into the USB sockets. They are deliberately made so they cannot be removed. Be very careful how you remove them. You can force them, but you risk destroying the USB sockets! On mine, I popped the bottom plastic USB plug out with a flathead screwdriver. The top one did not come out easily. The face of the plug ripped off before I could get the rest out. I would have been better off cutting the plastic with a sharp knife and removing the face of the plug, just so I could get the faceplate of the PC off and leaving the rest of the plug in place. I eventually got it all out, but I don't know if I damaged that USB plug or not.
Also note: when disassembling the unit, you have to remove every outside screw, as well as the HDD tray, the wifi antenna nut, and the serial port side-screws, in order to remove enough of the case to get at the CMOS battery to replace it without risking damage to the motherboard/battery-slot. It's annoying, but it's not that challenging. The bottom panel of the system (has attached fan) is connected to the motherboard for the fan power. That fan header is hard almost impossible to plug in if you've already re-attached the front faceplate. So remember to put the bottom (fan) plate on before the faceplate or you'll be taking it apart again.
Attachments
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20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-top2.jpg -
20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-OPS.jpg -
20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-hdd.jpg -
20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-front.jpg -
20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-bottom-RAM.jpg -
20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-bottom-motherboard.jpg -
20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-back.jpg -
20230730_AdvantechARK-DS262-top-motherboard.jpg
Your posts have been great-- thanks so much for taking the time.
I made the mistake of impulse-purchasing a VPC16-WP-4 after seeing a table for sale on FBM. This viewsonic model apparently isn't OPS? Or is a weird outlier of OPS-C, having a 120-pin connector. I need to see if they make adapters, but I doubt it.
Besides that and probably more pressing is the fact that the table won't turn on. Upon pressing, the power button turns green and the screen's backlight comes on for a moment, then goes black. The exisiting advantech PC seems to remain on. If I use the OSD control in the OPS slot bay, the backlight will come on again and an OSD menu will come up, allowing color and brightness adjustments. BUT it turns off again after about 15 seconds.
[I think] I'm hoping it is a power supply issue, as opposed to a backlight issue. If it was backlight, I think the PC would display when the backlight came back on, as well as remain in the same place in the OSD menu instead of kicking me out. Argh. At least it was only 50.
My next step before opening the whole thing up will be to try and DL the 12gb zip of the system image from smarttech. I'm hoping besides the system image it contains some firmware or something that will whip the display back into shape. dunno.
Hey boarduser, have you tried the HDMI out on the front of the internal PC? It should display something. If it does not, then you've got PC problems, not touchscreen problems. You may have to disconnect it from the table to make it display to the onboard HDMI port though, I have not tried it.
I did try the HDMI port to no avail. If you happen to try it, please lmk. I couldn’t rule out what you said about HDMI working without the 80pin being connected, because I don’t think I have any way of powering the pc component if I remove it from the connector/slot.
Ah, yeah, I forgot about powering the unit. Mine's like that too, the only power input on it is that big multi-purpose plug in the back. I suppose you could try applying voltage to the correct pins on that plug, but that would be a big pain in the rear. I haven't taken the table apart any further, but I'd bet there's some kind of break-out board that is connected to the other side of that OPS connector. You may be able to grab the video out at that point and connect a known working monitor and see if it's the display or not. At some point under the rest of all that plastic there's got to be a connector for the screen. I'd bet dollars to donuts that it's not a direct display (like a laptop), that its more of a monitor integrated into the frame of the table.
I ordered a OPS adapter board for like $20 from China. That'll be a good month though so I'll probably take it apart before then. Smarttech was about as helpful as anyone could expect regarding support on a ~10y/o tech device, but I did find some technical drawings on their site which should help a little.
I'll most likely replace the OPS PC anyways, but I don't want to spend the money unless I can get the monitor working. Found a lot of 4 with i5 5th but they are u series. There's also some 4th gen barebones so I could use a i7-4770 but I'd be shocked if it could handle it thermally. Too bad this Viewsonic didn't work out. i5-8500 is keeping cool pretty well despite the tiny HSF.
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